When I was little, I was really into airplanes. I was also really into the extremes: the biggest, the deepest, the highest. I knew that the Boeing 747 was the biggest commercial airplane at the time (it had a second level!) and that the Pacific Ocean was the largest ocean in the world. When I asked my parents if we could ever go on a trip where we rode in a 747, they told me that those were only used on long trips to places like Hawaii. This was perfect, because I could ride the biggest plane in the world into the middle of the biggest ocean in the world.
About a year ago our friend Kevin moved to Hawaii where he watches Chinese soap operas for a living. He told us that we had to come out and visit him. With my decades-long desire to visit the islands, and Heidi’s desire to go some place tropical, it wasn’t a hard sell. Heidi and I looked at dates and hemmed and hawed, but finally we picked a time to go. We bought our tickets and everything was great. Until we found out that there was some sort of miscommunication between Heidi and Kevin, and that Kevin would not be around for the week that we would be in Hawaii. Lesson: always call your friends before you buy the tickets, even if you thought that they said they would be around all month.
We flew into Oahu, where we were met by our friend Becky. Becky has the good fortune of studying things that live in tropical places, so she’s staying on Gilligan’s Island, which is a privately owned island where the University of Hawaii Oceanography and Marine Biology and Research has people doing research. Actually, the day we met up with Becky and one of her coworkers was the first day they had off in weeks. It would probably suck to be so close to paradise, working 12-16 hours per day.
Our schedule is something like this:
- two days on Oahu
- four days in Kauai
- three more days in Oahu
Today is our second day in Kauai. Here’s a quick summary of the trip so far:
Saturday
We flew out of San Francisco at 8:30 in the morning. (If you are leaving SFO at this time, i would recommend a cab in stead of the BART. I would also recommend that you double-check to make sure that you have all of your bags before you leave your apartment, because spending $120 on cabs in the town you live in before 8:00 AM is not pleasant.) Landed in Oahu a little after noon. I learned that they do not, in fact, give you leis when you get off the plane. That’s some serious Hollywood crap. They will, however, sell you a lei. Aparently that’s the real spirit of “Aloha”. Becky picked us up and took us to Waikiki Beach. We walked over to Duke’s for a drink. Time from landing to first drink: about two hours. We walked around Waikiki for a little while, and then Becky drove us around showing us some of the areas along the south shore. After stopping off at our hotel, we ended up grabbing some dinner with the Kaiser Telemetry team at Don Ho’s. OK, we didn’t actually eat with them, but we got to watch them have a rather depressing party in the room next to us. Hey Kaiser, thanks for harshing our paradise. After that, we went back to our hotel and crashed.
Sunday
On Sunday we hiked Diamond Head. You basically follow a trail and walk up a bunch of steps that take you from the bottom to the rim of a volcanic crater. At the top of the rim is a naval observation post. Back before radar the idea was that they could triangulate distances of enemy ships by taking readings at Diamond Head and another fixed point and send that information to the gunners at a third point. The gunners would then use 1337 math skillz and gunpowder to turn a floating piece of metal into a sinking piece of metal. These days, the place is a magnet for tourists like us. Well, not entirely like us. The observation post is something like 800 feet above sea level. The bus (actually, The Bus) drops you off near the entrance, which is already a few hundred feet up. But you still have to walk quite a way, in the baking heat. And some folks just aren’t ready for that. Oh, they think they are. But they aren’t. So if you want to go to Diamond Head, ask yourself, “Am I willing to walk up to the top of a 50 storie buidling?” If the answer is “no”, the stay down at Waikiki, have a Mai Tai, and don’t block the steps. Actually, I was pretty impressed by the number of people who did make it to the top. And the view is stunning. I’ll try to get some pictures when I have a chance. Because, you know, I’m sure my pictures are so much better than any of the other billions of pictures that people have taken from the top of Diamond Head.
We walked back down, got some shave ice, and decided to walk back to town. The lesson for today: never try to break in your new sandals (or the sandals you haven’t worn in years) on a long walk. By the time we made it back to Waikiki, or feet were pretty sore. I had a blister on my heel, but it wasn’t a big deal. Heidi, on the other hand, had a few pretty painful-looking blisters on her toes. But we trudged on back to the hotel with a stop by the beach to check out the surf lesson situation, and a stop for some food. Then we went back to the beach for our surf lesson.
Becky and Andrew taught us to surf when we visited them in San Diego last year. I was actually able to catch a wave using one of Andrew’s boards. Surfing in Waikiki was a bit different. Karen, our instructor, gave us a very brief lesson on how to paddle and how to get up. They don’t teach you how to turn. I’m not sure if this is because they don’t actually expect you to get up, or they figure that once you’re up you’ll fall down again quickly. Or maybe it would just take too much of the one hour that you’ve purchased. In any event, turning would have been a nice skill to have acquired, because the water is FULL OF PEOPLE. So you paddle out. Karen (or whoever your instructor happens to be) screams at you to stand up (or something, it’s tough to hear over the other shouts and the sound of the water), so you stand up, and then you look forward and there’s some guy dead ahead looking all goofy like he wonders what’s for breakfast. Since you can’t turn, you can either
- jump off the board
- run him over, which will probably result in you falling off the board
I always opted for jumping off. Karen told me I should just run them over. Karen, dear, you are far tougher than I am. Karen was a pretty good teacher. She was rough around the edges, but that’s good. I think she wanted her students to actually get up and ride a few waves and not just dilly dally in the water for an hour. Of course, getting your students to catch a few waves means being able to sell them pictures of themselves riding a few waves. I had noticed a guy manning a camera with a massive lens. It turns out he was taking pictures of people who were taking surf lessons. You could then buy a CD-ROM of these pictures for $60, or you could buy individual pictures for $20. They had a lot of pictures of me, but not many of Heidi, which seemed silly since she caught about as many waves as I did. There was nothing there that really made me think the pictures were worth $60, so we passed. I’m sure Karen would have gotten a cut, so I feel kind of bad, especially because we paid the group lesson rate but nobody else showed up so it was only us.
We go cleaned up and ate dinner at what was billed as “the best Thai restaurant in Honolulu”. I think the place was called Singha. I had a pineapple curry that was quite good. The place was filled with sculptures and paintings that had pricetags. I guess some people come for the art and stay for dinner. Or the other way around. Most of the paintings were pretty bland, and the sculptures looked like knock-offs of traditional european stuff. I can’t imagine being in Hawaii and deciding to pick up something like that to bring home, but to each his own. My short review would read, “Tasty food, tasteless art.”
We had talked about wandering around and checking out the night-life, but we ended up passing out in the room instead. I can’t quite seem to get on “Island Time”.
Oh, one other thing. We had breakfast at a place called Eggs and Things. They have a $4.99 Early Riser Special. Two eggs, three pancakes. They also have lots of different types of waffles. Purely from a cost-benefit (calories-per-dollar) standpoint, I would recommend the Early Riser Special. I paid almost twice as much for one small (but tasty) waffle and two eggs.
more later
OK, I’ll write more later. The plan for today is hiking and snorkling.